C’est au côté de l’illustre Dante que s’ouvre l’épopée, au coeur du Limbe où les non-baptisés sont condamnés. Ces êtres ont manqué le sacre du baptême, porte de la foi, et errent en quête de baies de genièvre, seul salut à leur âme.
Les rares baies récoltées sont ainsi macérées dans une eau de vie.
Le distillat refermerait un esprit, l’Esprit Saint, qui ouvrirait la voie vers le Paradis.
C’est en buvant ce breuvage que le condamné trouverait l’issue à son errance.
Ainsi, existe-t-il plusieurs types d’Esprit Saint dont voici quatre, aux caractéristiques très distincts.
Gustave Doré : Divin Comédie, l’EnferIV 40-42 :
“Pour un tel manque, et non pour d’autres crimes, nous sommes perdus, et notre unique peine, est que sans espoir nous vivons en désir.”
Bol’s Oude Jenever : le plus ancien d’entre eux.
Il s’agit de l’ancêtre du Gin, surtout répendu dans les Pays Bas, la Belgique et le Nord de la France.
Aussi appelé Genièvre sur nos terres septentrionales, ce spiritueux est une eau de vie de grain (seigle et malt d’orge) aromatisé aux baies de genièvres et épices.
Mon premier contact avec cet Esprit Saint remonte à quelques années, et quelle ne fut pas ma stupéfaction : j’avais l’impression de boire du papier… Je vous laisse imaginer ce que nos ancêtres du Nord avaient l’habitude de consommer depuis quelques siècles.
Il existe 2 types de Gin principaux : le London Dry et le Old Tom. Ce dernier s’en rapprocherait en terme de gout.
Une intéressante introduction aux 3 breuvages suivants.
Number 3 (London Dry gin) : L’esprit d’une douce et suave Sainte.
Entrons dans le vif du sujet : le Gin et le Genièvre sont élaborés de manière similaire.
Notons que d’après certains récits, le Gin était constitué d’un mélange d’épices dont le coût considérable (importation de lointaines contrées) ne permettait pas sa démocratisation. Ainsi, un heureux chimiste dont j’ai oublié le nom trouva un moyen d’obtenir une eau de vie bon marché au goût similaire en employant des baies de genièvre.
C’est grâce à ce cher alchimiste que nos bien aimés ancêtres continentaux purent connaitre les joies de l’ivresse.
Le Number 3 est l’un de mes favoris : comparé à de nombreux nouveaux produits, usines a gaz, sa composition semble plutôt simple en comparaison de ses concurents. Son gout est sincère et sa texture soyeuse.
À apprécier sous forme de martini extra dry.
Citadelle Reserve : La post-contrebande Française.
Voici un autre Gin élaboré cette fois en France, au château Bonbonnet par la distillerie Pierre Ferrant (Cognac).
Il a la particularité d’avoir été vieillis en fût de cognac 6 mois durant et sa composition de plantes et fruits se compte au nombre de 19. Cet onctueux gin fait référence à la Citadelle de Dunkerque qui fut le premier bastion de la contrebande de genièvre française vers l’Angle-Terre.
Monkey 47 : Un esprit baroque allemand.
Nous avons vu avec notre précédente découverte que le Gin n’est plus un produit exclusivement hollandais ou britanique : il existe aujourd’hui de nombreux pays concurrents, dont l’Allemagne. Monkey 47 compte pas moins de 47 ingrédients. Il titre aussi à 47% d’alcool. Son goût est très floral, en particulier la lavande, mais aussi épicé.
Son packaging est bien pensé et sa demande commence à largement détrôner le célèbre Hendrick’s parmi mes patients.
Je propose délibérément de clore ce voyage au Limbe par ce Gin qui est une explosion de saveurs. C’est une fin baroque cohérente à mon gout et un bon aperçus de ce que propose aujourd’hui nos chers barkeepers.
Venez donc les goûter dans mon cabinet d’alcothérapie, au Démon ;
Trouvez l’Esprit Saint renfermé dans ces spiritueux, redonnez lui force et laissez votre âme guidée vers les Portes du Paradis !
Ou suivez moi vers un nouveau voyage, toujours plus profond, au 2eme cercle de l’Enfer : les Whiskies Japonais… Amen
>%alc.
>120ml.
Have you heard about the Dorliss?
Pascal, my co-worker bartender, is from Martinique. He sometimes brings me legends his mother used to tell him : Dorliss is one of those and is to be scared by the women…
It is at twilight, once sun and light desert beings to the tropical nights, that the Dorliss wakes up and starts to sneak around the dwells in seek of sleeping feminine souls.
It is an incube and a metamorphic creature : mutating into a giant bat to pass thru houses’ keyhole. He spies and waits you to fall asleep.
Then, and only then, when your conscience is jailed into Morpheus arms, he approaches you and rapes your sleeping carcass, haunts your soul, oppresses and pushes your mind to leave yourself to Debauchery and Lust.
It is on the mourning, when the victim wakes up and finds her body covered by scars or herself pregnant that she knows what happened.
Even if a husband or a lover sleeps beside, the Dorliss neutralises him by tickling him toe.
The only way to prevent yourself from this beast is placing a plate of salt in front of your room or house. Thus, the dark creature will count one by one every single grain of salt.
In the worst cases, you can get a prescription to your voodoo doctor…
Or have a Counterspell cocktail (also known as Quimbois in Martinique).
My co-bartender Pascal made me one, adapting an obscure recipe told by his ancestors, a precious legacy.
So if you are a lady and feel a curse upon yourself, feel free to come to the Demon Bar, my alcotherapy office and ask for the Counterspell (or Contresort in french). If the curse is critical, then you should ask for Pascal, he will find out a way to unlink your soul from this evil spirit.
Come to the Daemon bar to uncurse your soul :
- 40ml. Overproof White Agricole Rhum
- 20ml. Mandarin Liqueur
- 15ml. Bois Bandé and other Spices Syrup
- 10ml. Lime
- 5ml. Ginger Wine
- 5ml. Simple Syrup
- 1 Dash : Angostura Bitter
- Eggwhite
- 15ml. H2O
- Garnish : Grated Cinamon
- Dry shake, Shake with Ice
- Double Strain into an eggwhite cocktail glass
- Garnish
>2,3oz.
Automne 2078, j’étais à l’aeroport, attendant qu’un avion passe me prendre.
J’avais dépensé le reste de mes sous dans ce billet à destination inconnue.
Deux heures durant, j’avais épluché les articles d’un journal local sans trouver satisfaction à mon impatience. C’était un ramassis de paragraphes futiles et grotesques comme savaient si bien le faire bon nombre de journalistes. J’entendis enfin un vrombissement dans le ciel.
C’était un engin costaux, à hélices de peut être cinquante pieds de long. Sa carapace me laissa perplexe quant à ma sécurité. Apres tout, je m’en foutais. Il atterrit et s’approcha. Le pilote ouvrit le hublot, et d’une voix tonitruante, perça le bordel sonore : “Monte tout de suite, on ne s’arrête pas”.
Sans plus attendre, je me ruai vers le petit mastodon. Une minuscule porte s’ouvrit avec peine pour m’accueillir. Sans examiner ce qu’il y avait à l’intérieur, je plongeai mon corps d’un trait. Elle se referma aussitôt.
Il faisait sombre et humide. Les petits hublots peinaient à faire entrer la lumière. Les parois intérieures étaient recouvertes de terre et de boue. Je tâtais au hasard pour trouver un siège vacant tant disque l’avion redécollait. Il n’y avait que deux rangées de siège. Je pris place rapidement. Ma vision s’adapta à l’obscurité : je percevais à présent une demi douzaine de passagers dont les silhouettes m’étaient étrangères. Je me demandais dans quel merdier j’avais bien pu foutre les pieds.
Apres une heure d’attente, une ombre svelte et féminine sortit du cockpit. Elle nous proposa, dans un anglais aux accents douteux, quelques collations. Tant d’efforts pour un choix si limité : un unique cocktail, probablement concocté à base d’alcool frelaté et d’ingrédients non identifiés.
Chic, tout ce dont j’avais besoin pour calmer mon excès d’imagination dans l’obscurité environnante. Ainsi elle sortit un chariot sculpté dans une unique pierre massive et noire aux reflets mattes et striés. Des infrabasses en émanaient tel des litanies orientales. L’espace d’un instant je me suis demandé à quel type de cirque ou rituel sectaire j’aurai droit, mais ce fut tout autre : Arrivée à ma hauteur et sans même daigner m’interroger du regard, elle sortit un énorme gobelet où elle y versa cinq ou six ingrédients dont j’ignorais l’origine. Elle y ajouta quatre petits blocs de givre fumant et se mit à mélanger à l’aide d’une longue tige qui avait plus d’un sceptre que d’une cuillère. Elle versa le breuvage dans un calice de cristal qu’elle me tendit. J’entrevis un visage lisse, sans reflet. Incrédule, je pris le verre. J’hésitais entre un rire nerveux ou fataliste. Au diable la raison!
Je posais mes lèvres sur le bord de la coupe quand une violente turbulence secoua l’avion. Par les saints esprits, pas une goutte n’avait débordé de ma coupette. Et tant mieux! Je repris une gorgée. Un inquiétant bruit retentit de l’autre côté de l’avion. Par un coup d’oeil à travers la minuscule fenêtre j’aperçus une hélice en flamme. Prit d’une sépulcrale panique, je bus mon breuvage d’un trait et c’est à cet instant que la deuxième hélice s’enflamma : l’avion piquât droit au sol. Un sentiment inconnus me serrait les entrailles… et à cela s’ajoutait le cocktail qui exigeait de refaire surface.
Le plus étrange dans tout ça, c’est que le silence régnait autour de moi : le pilote avait éteint les machines et les passagers restaient silencieux (en fait je ne les avais pas entendus depuis le début). Quelle idée d’avoir acheté un billet sans connaitre la destination et d’entrer dans un avion en tôle dorée… Plongé dans mes reproches, Je perdis connaissance.
Une chaleur insoutenable et un léger fumet de cacao torréfié me firent reprendre esprit. L’avion avait été déchiqueté et je me trouvais toujours dans mon fauteuil. Je me levais difficilement pour faire un tour des lieux. Il ne restait plus personne. Tout le monde avait disparus. En sortant de l’engin je découvris un monde désolé ou flammes et montagnes de chocolat m’entourraient.
Finalement, je ne regrettais pas tant ma douteuse destination…
Come to the Daemon bar to taste my trip to Hell :
- 40ml. Mescal
- 10ml. Tempus Fugit L’Avion d’Or
- 10ml. White Vermouth del Professore
- 10ml. Amaro Averna
- 1 Dash : Chocolate Bitter
- 1 Dash : Angostura Bitter
- Garnish : Orange Zest
- Stir all ingredients
- Strain into a cocktail glass
- Garnish
2013…
And still alive. Unfortunately We did not have the exculsive chance to gaze the end of the world !
I am saddened. But as soon as we passed the new year eve, I could find my consolation in the first meal I had for this year : Osechi.
Today I am not going to tell you about a cocktail creation but about composition in a cocktail.
It can have different aspects within a drink, within it’s preparation : the coherence of the tastes, the storyline you want to make feel to your guest (smell, attack, sustain, final. As in music : attack, sustain, release), the visual composition, your performance.
Apart from the social aspect, the whole care of those factors make the drink good, very good and sometimes stunning.
I’ve been working in music, doing photography/videos and it’s all about the same thing. I would almost be sure that it is also for cuisine, painting and all form of arts.
This is the case on the 1st of january in Japan.
Every household celebrate the new year by a morning meal called Osechi. Former times, in Shinto culture it was forbidden to cook for 3 days. You were only able to drink a soup called Ozôni (which is one of the dishes of the nowadays Osechi). I am not sure but I guess this ritual was a symbol of purifying oneself. Across ages it changed and have become Osechi.
It is mainly sweet and sour because sugar and vinegar could keep food for few days, at least those 3 days.
Osechi is a meal full of symbols. It is strongly based on it’s composition : Visual and aesthetic composition as the symbolic union of foods, words and wishes.
As instance : you will always find a red shrimp in it to reflect the curved image of an old person : It is a wish for longevity.
Another example is the 田作り (Tazukuri) : it is dried small sardines simmered in miring, sugar and soy sauce. The name Tazukuri has no meaning with the dish itself. It means : “building a rice field”. The reason is simple : long time ago small fishes were used to fertilise rice paddies. Therefore, Tazukuri wish you an abundant harvest.
My last example is about Konbu (昆布), seaweed. You can find it in different forms but especially tied. It is associated with the japanese word “yoroKOBU“, meaning “enjoying”.
All those words to explain you that you can create in different sensual and intellectual ways, but you can also combine them in order to illustrate your concept.
明けましておめでとう
]]>>3oz.
I’ve been reading the whole collection of a manga called Bartender for the first time.
And know what, it was a real lesson for myself as I’m japanese, and I used to work over there without understanding an ounce of the culture.
Why? because even if the cocktails are not very interesting (taste wise) it really shows another way to perceive drinks (thru the service) but further more : the way to make them.
Check my Nikka Perfect Serve Contest for further informations.
I got inspired by one of the drinks introduced in those manga. I think it was called : No Name, created by Johann Burgos.
I liked the idea to put spice in the shaker (it is a very old slightly hot spice from Asia. It is very well known but don’t confuse with Ceylan Cinnamon. You can even find it in Moses’ incense recipe in the Bible). I never tried it before but I thought Cassia was strong enough to be used as it is, without crushing it.
Obviously I led myself to gasoline-ish and spicy ron.
Some Velvet Falernum to add (more!) spice. And Saffron : I was convinced that it could melt well.
Next time, I will tell you a story and unknown properties about this very expensive spice (even more than caviar…) and potentially very dangerous !
So far, there is all the ingredients required for a Punch (I remind people that you read it : “PANCH” -meaning number 5 in hindi- and it requires 5 ingredients) : spirit, sweetener, sour agent, water (ice dilution) and spice !
Saffron-Cassia… Sassia !
Apki Lambi Umar Ke Liye !
- 1 stick of Cassia Bark (Cinnamomum aromaticum)
- 2 Safron threads
- 2oz. Jamaican Ron
- 0,5oz. Velvet Falernum
- 0,5oz. Lime
- 0,6ml. (1/8tsp.) Saffron Tincture
- Garnish : Cassia Bark
- Shake all ingredients
- Fine strain into a tumbler
- Garnish
>3oz.
I know, I know, I have been into a deep silence for long and I am doing my best to get back to my blog again.Lately I ve been very busy : I am now working in a new bar (which is also a restaurant and a separated speakeasy bar) in Paris 3rd district. Le Beaucoup. I will introduce it to you later once pictures’ll be ready.
For now, let me introduce you a new drink I made for the upper bar of Beaucoup.
The menu has a wide range of spirits and 4 cocktails I have made for advanced afficionados…
Well, I should say 3 of them. The last one is more common and girly type so everybody can be happy.
It is called Syrinx.
Let me tell you her story…
I guess you heard about Pan, the son of Hermes.
At his birth, her mother ran away scarred by his ugliness. Fortunately his father bring him to Olympus where he was warmly welcomed.
One of the famous legend of him is about Syrinx, a nymph. One day, as she was returning from the hunt, Pan met her. To escape from him, she ran away and didn’t stop to hear his compliments. He pursued her until she got to her sisters who immediately changed her into a reed. When the air blew through the reeds, it produced a plaintive melody. Pan, still infatuated, took some of the reeds and cut seven pieces, joined them side by side in gradually decreasing lengths, and made his consoling flute. We call that flute : Syrinx. As the nymph.
Back to the drink,
I was seeking something girly, related to a demon (or should I say a pagan god, as Christianity had turned them into demons or saints to expand their realm). The drink is originally served into a champagne flute. Obviously I like the dark and musical idea of Pan’s flute. And so the drink has become.
Taste wise, it is light and girly.
Colour is red as Passion and thru sweet and sourness you can taste Pan’s bitterness.
A dash of champagne to bring a veil of sparkle.
The drink can also suit to infatuated gentlemen…
You can taste it at the bar I am now working. Just ask for Flo and I will take care of you.
- Homemade Fresh Raspberries Pureée
- Pisco
- Vokka
- Aperol
- Lemon
- top : Champagne
- Garnish : Long Snake Lemon Zest
- Skake all ingredients but champagne
- Strain into a flute
- top with champagne
- Garnish
Recommend you to activate the HD quality at the bottom right of the video
HD, Sous-titré en Francais (en bas a droite de la vidéo)
I guess japanese subtitles would be useless as bartenders already know about it.
Next time I might introduce you how to make crystal clear blocks of ice at home, using japanese and occidental knives.
]]>>3oz.
Today, I gonna tell you an old story… A very old story from ancient writings.
It is a legend from the Japanese Shinto, dealing with Amaterasu, the calm and shining Sun godess.
One day, her brother Susano-O (Impetuous god of Storm and Chaos) came to visit her in her Realm before having a long journey in the dark and scary Yomi (underworld). He expected to meet her and bask her light and wisdom.
Thus, in haste and storm he traversed her lands and mountains spreading disorder.
Amaterasu, suspicious and armed of bow and arrows, came to welcome him and asked proofs of his good intention. Susano-O then proposed to create offsprings, which she agreed.
She took his sword, broke into 3 pieces and started to chew them for days and nights. A bright fog came out of her mouth and then appeared the 3 most beautiful goddesses that had ever existed (after Amaterasu).
Likewise, Susano-O took 5 jewels Amaterasu was wearing and start to chew them. A mist of light came out to his mouth and gave birth to the 5 strongest gods that had ever existed (after Susano-O).
Pride of his progenies and holier-than-thou, he started to jump around. Amaterasu then reminded him that they were made from HER jewels. Hearing this, Susano-O became furious and out of control.
Thru rains and storms, he started to destroy Amaterasu’s garden and to spread mud and excrements all over her temples.
That was the behaviour Amaterasu was suspicious about before meeting him. Full of pity, thinking that this behaviour belong to his Nature and reminding herself the tough journey he will endure in the Yomi underworld, She forgave him. But this made him even more mad !
Thus, one day, Susano-O flayed her horse and threw it into a hole dug into the roof of her sewing room. This probably symbolises the revelation of a subtle idea behind the skin.
It scared her Court and even caused death. Frightened, she ran far away into a cave.
And so the night became : the world was left in a deep darkness. Also, Susano-O started alone his journey to Hell (Yomi).
Outside the cavern, the world became darker than Night. The 8 million gods gathered to find out a solution. After several vain attempts, one of them, Uzume (goddess of Mirth and Dawn), stepped forward with a new idea of her own : She undressed herself, dress up with plants, climbed on a tub upon the cave and started to dance. Drumming with her feet in ecstasy, every gods started to laugh. Such a roar started to intrigate Amaterasu. She finally could not resist to have a look outside and found out that everyone was having so much fun without her.
Thus she came out of the cave and everyone became happy !
Back to the drink ! In my dark time, I was seeking comfort in creation.
The last alcohol a friend offered to me was a thin bottle of lebanese Arak (a 3-4 times distilled grape alcohol aromatised with anis. much fresher and sharp to me than all the occidental versions : Ouzo, Pastis, Sambucca, …). I wanted to make another drink with it. Something fresh, long sour and herbal.
Thus, I took another bottle that I don’t often use, Old Genever (an old version of Gin, taste to me like paper, somehow pure).
Arak is something pretty difficult to blend into a cocktail I think. It is strong, therefore one should use it in small quantities. Also, taste wise I think it melts pretty well with spirits as Tequila or Genever.
At final I added a touch of Fernet Branch on top, to symbolise upon that white and bright drink the darkness and the bitterness outside the cave (or on the other way round, you can even imagine the 8 million gods laughing in the white part of the drink and the bitterness of Amaterasu in the dark float)
This drink should have been called Amaterasu I guess, but it sounded more suitable to me to call it Uzume, as she was the one who brang her back to our world.
I use cherry as a garnish to symbolise Uzume as the dawn goddess.
Shall the light stay out of that cave !
- 50ml. Old Genever
- 20ml. Lemon
- 0,5oz. Simple Syrup
- 5ml. Lebanese Arak
- float Fernet Branca
- Garnish : Marascino Cherry
- Add all ingredients but Fernet Branca into a shaker. Skake
- Strain into a highball glass
- float the Fernet Branca
- Garnish
>3oz.
There is something that called me out the other night when I was siping a glass of Nikka Pure White. I almost discovered all this range of product thru my nose. And it deeply reminded me the japanese fruits flavours (such as plum, peach) veiled by a strong peat. Furthermore, I think I could find some floral violet notes.
I was surprised and I though I can make a drink based on this : Pure White and Crême de Violette.
I use Elixir Vegetal de Chartreuse to enhance the floral agent. And not to complicate the final result, I kept it very basic.
Why Laïlac?
Simple. I was seeking a purple flower name : obviously violet, iris, lilac and so on.
I could name it “Lilac“, but I guess there is already thousand of cocktails like that.
The name Leila sounded close to Lilac, so I checked out Mister Wiki to find out the concept behind it (YES, a big bunch of people still ignore the meaning behind their own name…).
Guess what. Leila is a pre-islamic name, coming from the middle East.
It aparently means : The Longest Night.
I knew it was the perfect concept for my drink.
A floral and feminine but peaty and deep as a long night. Lilac, Leila… Laïlac.
Shall the night become !
- 50ml. Nikka Pure White Japanese Whisky
- 20ml. Lemon
- 0,5oz. Simple Syrup
- 0,5tsp. Crême de Violette
- 0,5tsp. Elixir Vegetal de la Grande Chartreuse
- Garnish : Purple Flower
- Skake all ingredients
- Strain into a highball glass
- Garnish
>3oz.
Last Word, Final Ward, Pete’s Word et surtout Naked & Famous…
Une ribambelle de cocktail sweet & sour que je pourrai boir par litre.
Ils ont la surprenante particularité d’être dosés à part égale (spiritueux, citrus , chartreuse et liqueur de marasquin/ ou Aperol). En théorie, j’aurai mis ma main à couper qu’une telle chose serait déséquilibrée : bien trop sucrée, herbale et “marascinale”.
Et bien, que nenni ! Certes ce drink est sucré, mais je ne trouve pas cela dérangeant.
Une vraie recette magique !
Je vous les recommende vivement.
Donc pour revenir à ma créa, las de boire toujours les mêmes recettes, je me suis mis à chercher de nouvelles version tout en restant simple dans les dosages. Je vous envoie un premier jet avec mon Oak Ward.
Une version nippone du Final Ward, simplement axée sur du whisky japonais vieillis en fût de bourbon : où j’aime partager le dosage initial des liqueurs en trois : liqueur de marasquin, Strega (que j’ai recement découvert et qui remplace efficacement la Chartreuse) et Aperol qui donne amertume et orange au résultat final.
Cheers !
- 0,75oz. Nikka From the Barrel Japanese Whisky
- 0,75oz. Lime
- 0,5oz. Strega (or Chartreuse)
- 0,5oz. Marascino Liqueur
- 0,5oz. Aperol
- Garnish : Marascino Cherry
- Add all ingredients into a shaker. Skake
- Strain
- Garnish